How wonderful it is not to be a tourist. Especially in places where there are hardly any tourists at all this time of the year, November. Beograd (literally: white city) is grey, dirty, crowded and different, especially so much different from other cities in the west. I am here for two weeks to make a “Subjective atlas of Serbia” together with artists and designers. In a personal way this group of Serbian creative persons is going to map out their country and daily lives. Direct involvement as a starting point to develop honest alternative images. All interviews we had about the work, combined with an overall view of all plans and intentions, directly touch the soul of society. For me it is a crash course in Serbian culture. Which appears to be more complex than expected.